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Vegetables such as green beans are typically given the moist-heat treatment (steaming, boiling, blanching), but they end up being uncommonly intense in flavor when their built-in water content is manipulated via a dry-heat method like pan charring. Wonderful friends of mine took me to a Chinese restaurant in Bangkok famous among locals for its amazing ways with vegetables. My Pan-Charred Green Beans with Tarragon is a Western daydream of that establishment’s pan-cooking mastery.

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