On a recent trip to Philadelphia, I tried Tria Cafe for the first time. The name comes from the trinity they declare holiest: wine, beer, and cheese. And while it's best known for these three staples, I have to say it's also one of the best place in the city for a light yet satisfying lunch. I had the oak-roasted salmon salad, which features baby spinach, feta, fennel, and fregola sarda (a criminally underused chewy Sardinian toasted pasta that needs to be on more menus everywhere). The salmon was moist and smoky, and a lemon vinaigrette brightened the whole thing wonderfully.

The cheese I ended lunch with, Swiss tete de moine, came shaved paper-thin and wavy, and arranged on the board like a hybrid carnation/flowing sea anemone, which sounds (pardon me) cheesy and overwrought, I know, but it was actually just striking yet understated, and very fun. These guys know a thing or two about fun: the cheese menu includes an Italian blue described as "peppery and pungent, bordering on obstreperous."

A healthy-minded traveler won't do much better than Tria for fresh, tasty lunch in Philadelphia.