2012 Taste Test Awards: Artisanal Category Winners
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Watching Gourmet Grow
The pickling craze of 2010 simmered down, leaving room for a burst of intricate preserves, as well as a noisy party of superb small-batch liquor and beer. Most of these items can be ordered online. Shipping can be expensive, so we favored products that deliver a uniquely regional experience or make special gifts.
We did not focus on low-fat foods: When the quality is this high, you can enjoy a little less and truly savor.
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Best in Condiments: North Carolina
April McGreger is the one-woman operation behind this richly textured treat. Lemon lifts the flavor of Brown Turkey figs; bourbon and vanilla add richness.
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Best in Condiments: Washington
Rebecca Kawanami learned international flavor profiles while tasting her way around the globe as a flight attendant. This tapenade is a fantastically unique sweet-salty blend of figs with meaty bits of olive and a hint of pucker from pomegranate molasses.
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Best in Condiments: Minnesota
The Red Lake Band of Chippewa Indians makes regionally specific products, like this tart, bright spread made from wild Minnesota chokecherries. Similar to cranberries, the fruit is sweet and astringent, with a trace of port-soaked cherry flavor.
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Best in Condiments: Michigan
Great fresh-fruit flavor and zip—courtesy of Michigan-grown Montmorency cherries—make this taste like fresh, homemade jam. Bright, light, and bursting with fruity goodness.
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Best in Sweets: California
Former Los Angeles pastry chef Christine Moore started this business to spend more time with her children, and these soft, chewy delights are one of the payoffs. Gray sea salt from Brittany makes these briny-buttery and perfect.
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Best in Sweets: Georgia
Friends Carol Chanin and Loretta Webb of Macon collaborate on these cookies, which are irresistibly crumbly with a fantastic pecan crunch.
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Best in Sweets: Massachusetts
The beans come from a small cooperative in the Dominican Republic, yielding a bar that tastes slightly fruity and perfectly acidic.
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Best in Sweets: California
Roasted and generously sea-salted peanuts are enveloped in a delicately crackly caramelized crust.
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Best in Sweets: Oregon
Picture a fun-sized Snickers bar. Then imagine it filled with near-liquid, bourbon-laced salted caramel, nougat, and roasted-yet-tender pecans.
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Best in Sweets: Michigan
A buttery crust encases what seems like an entire truckload of Michigan-grown cherries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. Amazing.
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Best in Cheese: Pennsylvania
A wickedly sharp yellow cheddar, hand-cased in black wax and aged for three years. Creamy but pocketed with satisfying crystalline bits.
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Best in Cheese: California
Pleasantly musty, deeply earthy flavors from Marcia Barinaga's Marin County farm, which has only been churning out cheese since 2009. Chef Thomas Keller is a big fan.
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Best in Cheese: California
Wonderfully creamy, Alpine-style cow's-milk cheese with a nutty caramel flavor and a buttery finish reminiscent of Jarlsberg.
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Best in Cheese: California
Similar to cream cheese in texture, but in a mind-blowingly upgraded form. Velvety soft, cow's-milk cheese with a lingering hint of grassy tang—all wrapped up in a thin, delicate rind.
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Best in Booze: Colorado
Like an aquavit that grew up in Bombay, with an intense cardamom zip and black pepper--fueled bite. Very sweet but not cloying. Stir into milk for an Indian spin on a White Russian—and feel all worldly.
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Best in Booze: Virginia
Diane Flynt blends Arkansas Black and Newtown Pippin apples with apple brandy to create an ode to the apple in liquid form. It has notes of honey, butterscotch, and caramel, yet it's neither too sweet nor hidden by too much fizz.
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Best in Booze: California
A whiff of this woodsy, outdoorsy gin is alcohol aromatherapy, and its bright note of citrus complements the gin's evergreen core.
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Best in Booze: Florida
This Sarasota distillery produces its rums in a copper-pot still. The silver variety is dangerously drinkable with hints of sweet butterscotch. We also loved the spiced version with its warm punch of nutmeg.
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Best in Booze: New York
A 3-hops, 5-malt, bottle-conditioned brew that tastes of citrus and flowers. It has the hoppy authority of an IPA while the yeasty malt rounds out the architecture. Fine, Champagne-like bubbles pop on the tongue.
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Best in Booze: Illinois
Derek and Sonja Kassebaum's Lake Bluff craft distillery is the first in Illinois since Prohibition. This infused vodka is delicious, smooth, and citrus-fragrant, and has none of the fakey-fruit sweetness that derails many flavored vodkas.
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Best in Meat: South Dakota
You've never tasted buffalo so tender, buttery, and juicy, with just enough grassiness to pay homage to the South Dakota plains. It's the very definition of healthy indulgence for a meat lover. A 1-pound steak serves four.
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Best in Meat: Washington
With cardamom and orange zest for aromatic effect, and a slightly firm, not too fatty texture. Producer Gina Batali does credit to the family tradition started by her father, Salumist Armandino Batali, and her brother, Chef Mario Batali.
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Best in Meat: Florida
Central Florida isn't the first place that comes to mind when barbecue is mentioned, but this is exceptionally fork-tender, masterfully smoked Angus brisket. Nuanced levels of smokiness could placate even the pickiest Texan.
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Best of the Rest: South Carolina
A concentrated quinine syrup that blends crisp acidity with a bit of orange peel and lemongrass. Add soda to make a cool G&T.
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Best of the Rest: Colorado
Greg Skufca looks back to his Austrian-American grandmother's pickles for recipe inspiration in these sweet (but not syrupy) rounds with a spicy kick on the finish.
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Best of the Rest: California
They're soaked in water before roasting, yielding a crunch that lasts to the core. Sea salt enhances the nuts' toasty flavor.
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Best of the Rest: California
A non alcoholic grape juice made from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes grown in Mendocino's Anderson Valley. Tangy but not too tart, with a dry, crisp finish.