2011 Taste Test Awards: Artisanal Category Winners
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Most items can be ordered online. Shipping can be expensive (and not exactly green), so we favored products that deliver great value, make special gifts, or are truly representative of their region.
We did not focus on low-fat foods for the simple reason that when the quality is high, the quantity can go down: A sliver of the pancetta pictured opposite is more satisfying than three pieces of regular bacon.
Thanks to our regional food experts: Belinda Ellis, Jenn Garbee, Jill Silverman Hough, Hanna Raskin, Robin Schempp, Marilou Suszko, and Laura Taxel
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Best in Meat: New Hampshire
Taken from the center of the pork butt rather than the fatty belly, this bacon is sweet and perfectly smoky with just a slight hint of maple-y goodness. Produced by a family-owned smokehouse.
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Best in Meat: Wisconsin
Milwaukee-based producer Scott Buer uses traditional dry-curing methods, extending the process to 30 days for added depth of flavor. There's a silky sweetness here that makes it one of the finest pancettas we have ever been lucky enough to taste.
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Best in Meat: North Carolina
Meat from Hungarian heritage breed Mangalitsa hogs is fatty, rich, and slightly gamey. Don't hide this ham in a sandwich—its creamy texture will remind you of better prosciutto.
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Best in Meat: Washington
These plump jewels are fished from Alaskan waters and smoked in small batches near Seattle; then they arrive ready to crown a salad or lend a sweet note to an antipasti plate. Their concentrated scallop flavor and firm texture reveal a perfect touch by the smoker.
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Best in Beer & Spirits: California
Now here is a gift to give the liquor nut in your life (perhaps one whom you owe a big favor—this is no cheap vodka). Sweetly sippable with hints of herbs and grass, it reveals its wine-country origins: This extraordinary vodka comes not from potatoes or grain, but from sauvignon blanc grapes harvested from a single vineyard.
Note: Local laws may mean liquor has to be sourced through distributors in some states.
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Best in Beer & Spirits: North Carolina
This truly small-batch distillery—they produced only 5,000 cases last year—is located in Kings Mountain, North Carolina. Thirty-year-old twin brothers, Charlie and Alex Mauney, have developed a Western-style gin (less juniper, more of other flavorings) that hits with a strong, clean nose of pine.
Note: Local laws may mean liquor has to be sourced through distributors in some states.
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Best in Beer & Spirits: California
Patrick Rue, the 31-year-old owner of The Bruery in Orange County, brings an experimental, Californian sensibility to his higher-alcohol, Belgian-style, bottle-conditioned beers: Trade Winds uses rice in the mash, which makes for an especially crisp and refreshing light-bodied beer. A touch of Thai basil and a lemony nose make it a gorgeous accompaniment for fish.
Note: Local laws may mean liquor has to be sourced through distributors in some states.
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Best in Cheese: California
Until Gioia opened, burrata—mozzarella stuffed with curd and heavy cream—was difficult to find domestically. Now it's a chef's darling—wonderful in a roasted beet salad or simply drizzled with olive oil on its own.
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Best in Cheese: North Carolina
A creamy, aged goat cheese with a bloomy rind and smoky ash that evokes a delicious hint of truffle and damp forest floor. Produced by Jennifer and Andy Perkins on their small farm in the North Carolina mountains.
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Best in Cheese: California
Sweet, creamy proof that ricotta can be so much more than lasagna filler. Tastes of sweet milk with rich, creamy mouthfeel. Toss with hot pasta, or spread on toasted whole-grain bread.
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Best in Cheese: Vermont
This double-cream chèvre is derived from a blend of cow's cream with cow's and goat's milk. Smooth and velvety with a wallop of cream in a positively unctuous package.
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Best in Cheese: Wisconsin
A subtle washed-rind cow's-milk cheese that quietly announces its presence with a hint of musty barnyard funk on the palate, not the nose. Smooth texture with a slightly bitter rind and a silky center.
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Best in Condiments: Vermont
Wood's Cider Mill has produced this syrupy condiment (basically reduced apple cider) since 1882. It adds a sweetly tart tang to everything from pancakes to pork chops.
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Best in Condiments: Colorado
Brent Edelen, a sixth-generation beekeeper, produces this fantastic unpasteurized, unfiltered raw honey. More stout than sweet, it has notes of molasses and coffee and a glassy texture that's clean on the palate. Try a drop or two in hot tea.
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Best in Condiments: North Carolina
South India native (now Pittsboro resident) Ann Varkey began bottling her line of chutneys and curries in 2002. The curried lemon is intense and earthy with an authentic kick. Instantly enlivens grilled meats.
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Best in Condiments: Minnesota
Zoie and Amy Glass create jams and jellies to accompany savory foods like salty prosciutto or creamy chèvre. The Minnesota Mead features a blend of local honeys. Hints of sweet wine flavor shine through with just a bit of balancing acidity.
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Best in Condiments: Hawaii
Harvested from a single grove of kiawe trees on the Big Island, this honey has a thick, creamy, milky texture with lovely sweet floral notes. Like the Tamarisk above, it's also unheated and unfiltered, but these two honeys are on opposite ends of the texture and sweetness spectrum.
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Best in Sweets: Florida
It can be difficult to produce a cake that stands up to shipping, but this one arrived moist, fresh, and tasty. The bakery offers a rotating lineup of flavors, but the burst of fresh citrus in the Key lime variety was like a delicious culinary postcard from sunny Florida.
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Best in Sweets: Wisconsin
Mother-and-son duo Peter and Nancy Potter churn out these flatbread-like crackers in 10 varieties (plus seasonal specialties); we loved the hazelnut graham. A light coating of sugar adds a touch of sweetness and a pretty sparkle. Top with a sharply contrasting blue cheese or a sweet mascarpone.
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Best in Sweets: New York
Here's a time- and effort-saver that will pass most any picky baker's muster. Quality, buttery dough rises to about eight times its original height, revealing hundreds of thin, puffy, flaky layers.
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Best in Sweets: California
Wow! A fantastically deep hit of chocolate lurks in these sophisticated shortbread cookies. Nice salty kick, too. Perfect on their own with a cup of coffee.
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Best of the Rest: Alabama
As part of the YouthBuild program in the impoverished Black Belt region of Alabama, high school students produce brittle and butter. This is a staggeringly good, fairly loose paste of toasted nuts, honey, and cinnamon. Nice on a cracker or biscuit, but you won't be able to resist eating it straight from the spoon.
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Best of the Rest: Vermont
Bitters—tinctures of herbs and roots—were an integral part of early cocktail culture that have recently made a comeback in the fancy bar scene. These bitters are handcrafted from organic ingredients in Burlington with a touch of maple sweetness and a hint of orange.
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Best of the Rest: California
Theo Stephan makes a variety of oils and vinegars under her Global Gardens label. The black currant vinegar is a great balance of vinegar and fruit—such pure flavor that it needs just a dash of olive oil to make a dressing or marinade.
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Best of the Rest: South Carolina
Bottled since 1903 and available in regular, hot, and diet options. Our resident ginger ale expert liked the unique hit packed by the hot variety. It's hard to find a good ginger ale that's not too sweet, but this one has plenty of balance. It would take a classic cocktail, such as a Dark and Stormy, to a new place.
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Best of the Rest: Nebraska
Despite the growth of the gluten-free market, we've found few items that offer the flavor and texture that baked goods should deliver. Not so for this mix from tiny Tekamah, Nebraska, which turns out moist and light muffins and coffee cake. Whole-grain sorghum flour is the first ingredient.