Just back from a visit to Schramsberg in northern Napa, maker of some of America's very best sparkling wines and a company that has roots in one of the oldest wineries on the west coast. Tasted six with Hugh Davies, who runs it now, including one from 1997 and one from 1995. Old sparkling wine takes on caramel and nut and "maderized" flavors of brown sugar and baked fruits. But it's still bubbly and light--amazing stuff, and it begs to be matched by complex food. I think I'd drink it with roast five-spice duck with plums, or something like that.