Chef Bryan Caswell has taken a leading role in the Gulf's sustainable-seafood movement by turning underutilized bycatch into delectable ceviches, salads, and entrées. His restaurant, Reef, was also one of the first in Houston to offer reef-specific Gulf oysters. These include hand-selected bivalves from once-legendary Galveston oyster appellations like Pepper Grove and Ladies Pass and rack-raised oysters from the new experimental oyster farm at Point aux Pins in Mobile Bay. Try them in Reef's Baked Oysters with Swiss Chard, Lime Pickle, and Asiago Breadcrumbs. Caswell is also experimenting with mahimahi roe bottarga, an homage to the famous Sardinian dried salted fish roe.
Pictured: Oysters at Reef