On The Barbecue Trail

This North Carolina three-day itinerary offers a delicious detour during your holiday travel.

Teh Barbecue Center has become a landmark in Lexington, North Carolina.

Douglas Merriam

Most readers of Cooking Light will agree that one of the best reasons to travel is to enjoy great food. Take, for example, this three-day driving tour, which guides you to some of North Carolina's best traditional wood-smoked barbecue restaurants, as compiled by the North Carolina Barbecue Society. Along the way be sure to take some time to shop for holiday gifts, visit museums, and explore the outdoors while the weather is still sunny, with moderate daytime temperatures and cool nights.

The Barbecue Trail reflects a growing trend of travel that's focused on particular foods. Self-guided food trails provide edible experiences of the regional delicacies and agricultural products that make America so deliciously diverse. They also offer a taste of an area's culture and history with off-the-beaten-path activities and attractions.

Follow our suggested path through North Carolina, or plot a course of your own, tasting the foods of your home state as you travel during the holiday season. One of the best things about road trips―there's always something new to be savored around the next bend.

Day 1: Explore the Triangle: Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill

Fly into Raleigh-Durham International Airport, and drive 14 miles southeast to the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences (919-733-7450), in downtown Raleigh. Four floors of exhibits include an ocean ecology wing where whale skeletons are suspended overhead, a prehistoric section where the only fossilized dinosaur heart in existence is on display, and a miniature rain forest where vividly colored butterflies flutter among visitors.

When you're ready to eat, head southwest three miles to the State Farmers' Market for jars of pickled okra, jams, and rich sweet potato butter, a local specialty. Across the lot at the State Farmers' Market Restaurant (919-755-1550), overall-clad staff serve collard greens alongside their chopped pork barbecue doused with a zingy vinegar-based sauce, a style that's popular here and points east.

The North Carolina Museum of Art (919-839-6262) is five miles west of the market. Although the museum's permanent collection indoors spans works from ancient Egypt to modern America, the most interesting finds are outside. Four paths wind through the museum's 164-acre park and sculpture gallery, which features environmental art like Cloud Chamber for the Trees and Sky, a rustic building with a small opening in the rooftop that creates a camera-obscura projection of the sky and treetops onto the walls and floor of the structure.

Continue 31 miles west to Pittsboro on picturesque Highway 64 across Jordan Lake (919-542-1154), where bald eagles swooping overhead are mirrored on the surface of the glassy water. About eight miles past the lake, the Fearrington House Restaurant (919-542-2121) features elegant multicourse dinners of carefully procured local ingredients. Executive Chef Graham Fox grows his own micro-greens and picks figs from trees in the neighborhood. Dishes like roasted venison with goat cheese–grits soufflé and peppercorn gastrique upgrade the notion of "country cooking."

Where to stay: A short walk from the restaurant through gardens full of crimson dahlias and late-blooming clematis, the Fearrington House Inn (from $250; 919-542-2121) offers luxurious rooms with tasteful antiques, plush featherbeds, and homemade truffles upon turndown.
 

 

 


Day 2: Sample gourmet shopping and down-home cooking
 

The 12-mile route on US 15 takes you north past the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill campus. Turn right at North Estes Drive, and continue two miles to A Southern Season (919-929-7133). With 59,000 square feet of retail space featuring nearly every gourmet food imaginable, kitchen accoutrements, tableware, and hundreds of products from North Carolina, including 46 different kinds of barbecue sauce, your holiday shopping and shipping can all be taken care of in one visit.

With your appetite piqued, travel six miles via rural NC 86 to Allen and Sons Barbecue (919-942-7576). Once seated in the quaint seafoam-green dining room, you'll be among locals who come for the tender Eastern-style chopped pork barbecue, hush puppies, and warm sweet potato pie that may force you to reconsider pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dessert.

Another 52 miles west, Guilford Courthouse National Military Park (336-288-1776) commemorates the battle in 1781 that helped expel the British army from the South and, soon after, the country.

Where to stay: The Proximity Hotel in Greensboro (from $229; 336-379-8200) is working to become the first certified Platinum-Level Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) hotel in the United States. Green design elements include solar-heated water and an elevator that captures and reuses its own energy.

The adjacent Print Works Bistro (336-379-0699) has plenty of fine options that offer a break from barbecue, like steak frites or chicken paillards with preserved lemon and red cabbage. After dinner, ask for one of the hotel's complimentary bikes and enjoy an evening ride.

Day 3: Walk through time and paddle through rapids

Rise early and head 27 miles west on I-40 to the historic Old Salem Museums and Gardens (336-721-7300) in time for breakfast. Stroll down Main Street past blocks of handsomely restored 18th- and 19th-century Moravian immigrant dwellings. The aroma of warm cinnamon-laced sugar cakes baking in a 200-year-old brick oven will lead you to Winkler's Bakery for pastries, coffee, and a souvenir tin of Moravian ginger cookies.

From here, take NC 8 south 21 miles to Lexington, the unofficial barbecue capital of North Carolina. Every year the tiny town draws more than 150,000 visitors on the fourth Saturday of October for a festival that celebrates Lexington's barbecue prowess. Other days of the year, a stop at the quaint drive-in diner called the Barbecue Center (336-248-4633) will give you a good idea of why the town is famous. Here, Eastern North Carolina–style barbecue gives way to Western―pork shoulder served with a thin ketchup-based sauce and tomato-tinged coleslaw. When you order, be sure to ask for a bit of "outside brown," the crisp outer parts of the pork shoulder.

Finish your trip with heart-pounding outdoor fun at the U.S. National Whitewater Center (704-391-3900), 67 miles south just off of I-85. Raft the world's largest man-made whitewater river, or kayak on the calm Catawba River. If splash sports aren't your thing, the facility also offers a rock-climbing structure, mountain bike rentals, and eco-caching, a high-tech adventure that uses handheld GPS receivers to guide visitors on treasure hunts through the center's 307-acre wilderness.

Where to stay: Rest and relaxation wait 20 miles south on the I-485 loop at the Ballantyne Resort (from $229; 704-248-4000), where a spa and daily yoga classes will help you end your tour rejuvenated.
 

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