We began our day by taking the train to Riomaggiore, where Walter de Batte made his award-winning wine. It was so funny that there was an elevator at the bottom of the hill that lifted us to the road above, kind of a Willy Wonka moment. With Walter’s wines complementing the meal, we had the most marvelous lunch at Cappun Magru in Casa di Marin. The amazing thing about wine is the complexity. It has the ability to change with food. A good wine, I discovered, is one with structure, one whose flavor will not dissipate after the first sip, but lingers on the palate. See all the wine glasses? You can imagine my condition when we set out on the hike to Corniglia!