Today was an earn and burn day. We hiked for nearly 3 hours on a trail from our Levanto hotel to Monterossa Al Mare, a walk that involved a lot of intense climbing and navigating streams, loose rocks, and ledges. So, we earned our lunch, having burned off all of breakfast. Don’t look down! This is the view from the hike toward Monterossa Al Mare.At the bottom of the hill, we were met by Pamela and a van to take us to Ristorante il Ciliegio and to enjoy the hospitality of its owner, Gianni. This was the sight of my first ever encounter with rabbit and anchovies. Anchovies were prepared every conceivable way―cured, fried, stuffed, and drizzled with lemon, cracked pepper, and olive oil. We learned that this staple fish must be eaten quickly, because it deteriorates rapidly. Otherwise, it has to be salt-cured to preserve it.