A little history: When the colonists arrived in North America, they were introduced to a vegetable they'd neither seen nor tasted before -- squash. Native Americans, however, had been eating it for many centuries. The English name of this tasty member of the gourd family comes from the Narragansett word askutasquash.

What they look like: From acorn to turban, winter squashes vary wildly in size, color, and shape. Most have a sweet, mellow flavor, but there are differences here as well. See Winter Squash I.D.s for details on your favorite gourd.

Selection tips: The tastiest winter squashes will be solid and heavy, with stems that are full, firm, and have a corky feel. The skin of the squash should be deep-colored with a matte finish (shininess usually indicates a wax coating that will become inedible when cooked). Avoid cracks, soft spots, and moldy areas. Also, give the squash the nail test: If you can press your fingernail into it or easily scrape a bit of skin off, it's not ripe enough.

Storage tips: When stored in a cool, dark, dry, well-ventilated area, winter squash will keep for a month or more. The only time squash should be refrigerated is after it has been cut and wrapped in plastic.

How to eat them: With the exception of spaghetti squash (seeI.D.), virtually any winter squash (including pumpkin) can be substituted for another in any recipe, from main dish to side dish to dessert. The first order of business, though, is how to cut the squash. With a hefty knife or cleaver, hack off the stem, then smash the knife or cleaver lengthwise into the rind. If necessary, use a rubber mallet or rolling pin to gently hammer right where the blade meets the handle, until the squash splits. If you're still having trouble, pierce the skin in a couple of places, microwave the squash on HIGH for a minute or two, and let it stand for several minutes; then, try cutting it again. Once you've split the squash, use a large spoon to clean the seeds and membrane out of the cavity. It's now ready to be boiled, baked, roasted, simmered, steamed, microwaved, or sauteed. If you're baking or microwaving a whole squash, be sure to pierce the rind in several places with a fork so it won't explode. (If you need to peel the squash, do so after cooking.) One pound of winter squash will provide about two cups of cooked pieces.

Peak growing season: Winter squash can be found throughout the year, although it's at its best from early fall through the winter.

Health benefits: Generally, most varieties are rich in vitamins C and A (in the form of beta-carotene), two antioxidants that help prevent cancer, heart disease, and some eye problems. That's why color is important--the darker the squash, the more beta-carotene and other nutrients it contains. Winter squash is also a good source of iron and riboflavin.

Nutritional info: Although the different squashes vary slightly, in general, one half cup of baked winter squash cubes equals just 41 calories and provides a generous 2.9 grams of fiber, along with 0.9 gram of protein, 0.6 gram of fat (0.1 gram of it saturated), 1 milligram of sodium, and no cholesterol.