A little history: American Indians taught the Colonists how to gather maple sap and boil it down into syrup, which they called "sweetwater." While maple trees can produce several gallons of sap apiece during the season, it takes between 20 and 50 gallons (depending on whether it's early or late in the season) to make a single gallon of syrup--which explains why it's so expensive. Vermont, New York, and Canada are known as producers of the highest quality maple products.

How it's made: First, the maple tree is tapped--the sugarmaker inserts a spout into the trunk of the tree, then hangs a bucket from it to catch the sap. Once the bucket is filled, the sap is taken to the sugarhouse, where it's boiled down until it's thick and syrupy. (Boiling the sap until the liquid has almost completely evaporated leaves maple sugar, which is about twice as sweet as table sugar.)

Selection tips: Real maple syrup is graded according to color and flavor--usually, the higher the grade, the lighter the syrup in both areas. And a higher grade doesn't necessarily mean a better flavor--it all depends on your taste.

Fancy or Grade AA: Light amber color, mild flavor
Grade A: Medium amber, mellow flavor
Grade B: Dark amber, hearty flavor
Grade C: Very dark, robust flavor (like molasses)
Eschew maple-flavored and pancake syrup for the superior taste of the real thing--it's worth the expense.

Storage tips: Stored in the refrigerator, pure maple syrup will keep for about a year after opening.

How to eat it: For the best flavor, be sure to bring the syrup to room temperature (or warmer) before pouring it onto pancakes, waffles, and french toast. To heat it, you can either pour the syrup directly into a pan, or into a glass bottle and place it in a pan of hot water; either way, use low heat. You can also warm it in your microwave; one half cup will take 30 to 60 seconds on HIGH to heat thoroughly. And maple syrup isn't just for breakfast! Pour it on ice cream, puddings, cakes, hot cereals, and baked apples; use it to glaze carrots, ham, or other meats and fish; or substitute it for honey in cakes, pies, breads, and frostings.

Peak season: Sugar season, during which the trees are tapped for their sap, usually begins in mid-February and runs for 4 to 6 weeks. The resulting syrup is, of course, available year-round.

Nutritional info: One tablespoon of this maple elixir equals 52 calories, 2.0 milligrams of sodium, and no fiber, protein, fat, or cholesterol.