Facing each other across Little Traverse Bay in Lake Michigan, Petoskey and Harbor Springs have lured vacationers since the 19th century. Ernest Hemingway summered in the region, and prominent families, including the Gambles (of Procter and Gamble) and Fords (of car fame), built second homes nearby. Victorian cottages sprang up along the 10 miles of shore separating the towns as early as the 1870s. Stay in one town, but explore both, where the pleasures of resort town living meet quiet forests and dune-lined shores.

Make a plan: Rent a bike from Bahnhof Sports (231-347-2112), and take a spin on the Little Traverse Wheelway, a 27-mile bayside trail that threads the two towns together. Midway between them, beachcomb for Petoskey stones, the fossilized coral that is the state rock, at Petoskey State Park (231-347-2311). Explore the north woods at the McCune Nature Preserve (www.landtrust.org).

For an architectural walk, stroll the streets of Bay View (www.bayviewassoc.com). The National Historic Landmark community adjacent to Petoskey hosts 440 brightly painted Victorian-era cottages. Petoskey's Crooked Tree Arts Center displays rotating exhibitions of museum caliber, lodged in a converted 1890 Methodist church (231-347-4337). While in town, browse the well-stocked stacks of McLean and Eakin Booksellers (231-347-1180), a popular shop strong in books on Michigan and by local authors. In Harbor Springs, peruse French glassware, Danish lamps, and other European and Scandinavian antiques housed in an old blacksmith's shop at Pooter Olooms Antiques (231-526-6101).

Kitchen smarts: New York Chef Larry Forgione cofounded American Spoon Foods (888-735-6700, www.spoon.com) in Petoskey in 1981, specializing in preserves made from local fruit. Look for outlets both there and Harbor Springs, offering plenty of samples that include new salsas, dressings, and sauces. Pick up gourmet picnic provisions, including cheese and Michigan wines, at Symons General Store (231-347-2438) in Petoskey, where it occupies the oldest building in town. For unique kitchenware that includes decorative napkins as well as sturdy pots, head to Cutler's (231-347-0341).

Good food: Crowds throng American Spoon Foods' Gelato Café (231-347-7004) in Petoskey for upscale sandwiches, salads, and homemade gelato. Down the street, superior steaks, fresh seafood, and a globally informed menu make Chandler's (231-347-2981) a special-occasion choice. For superb grilled meats, Petoskey's City Park Grill (231-347-0101) is the place-Hemingway was a fan. Head to nearby Traverse City for the Traverse Epicurean Classic (September 15 to 17). Take part in cooking demonstrations and wine tastings, and meet chefs Mario Batali and Terrance Brennan (www.epicureanclassic.com).

Call it a night: The brick-clad, historic Stafford's Perry Hotel, vintage 1899, offers veranda dining in downtown Petoskey ($79 to $249; 231-347-4000, www.theperryhotel.com). For the best location in Harbor Springs, overnight at Main Street's nautical-inspired Harborside Inn ($140 to $250; 800.526.6238, www.harborside-inn.net).

Fruit Full: Self-described "fruit obsessive" Justin Rashid makes whole fruits the focus of his preserves at Petoskey-based American Spoon Foods (www.spoon.com), which are sold at shops here in town, as well as via catalog and the Internet. "We add the minimum amount of sugar to preserve the fruit," Rashid says. The resulting "spoon preserves," so named because their abundant fruit content requires a spoon rather than a knife to spread, showcase the best of coastal Michigan fruit growers, including strawberries, peaches, blueberries, apples, and cherries. In addition to the original spoon fruit preserves, American Spoon makes fruit-based grilling sauces, salsas, dressings, and gelatos in a product line that features 150 items.