When people talk about wines that are good with fish, they usually refer to those that have enough acidity to provide a refreshing counterpoint to a broad spectrum of fish flavors. In general, drinking a crisp white wine with fish isn’t really much different than squeezing a bit of fresh lemon on it. Both wine and lemon provide a bracing, clean flavor that’s a perfect juxtaposition to just about anything from the sea.

However, there are many types of fish. From a flavor and texture standpoint, salmon is as different from shrimp as chicken is from pork. And so, from a wine-pairing perspective, it makes sense to focus on specifics.

Pan-Grilled Sole
Sole and flounders of all types are often simply called flatfish. Their thin, delicate fillets and mild flavor make them very appealing, as well as quick and easy to cook. The best wine pairings are whites with a similarly mild flavor and light body. Pinot grigio is ideal, as are an assortment of other Italian whites, such as vernaccia di San Gimignano, vermentino, arneis, Gavi, ribolla gialla, and Orvieto. All of these are light, dry, clean, and snappy.

Grilled Salmon
Salmon’s more substantial taste calls for a wine that has weight and depth, but its richness demands a wine with good acidity. My favorite is pinot noir. While it might seem adventurous to pair a red wine with fish, pinot noir with grilled salmon has become popular on the West Coast in states like California and Oregon, both of which are known for pinot noir wines and locally caught salmon.

Crab Cakes
With crab cakes, the seasonings and bindings are a factor in any wine decision. For traditional crab cakes, I serve a white Burgundy made from chardonnay grapes. Nothing mirrors the rich sweetness of the crab better. Be forewarned: White Burgundies are expensive (but then so is crab!). If you opt for a California chardonnay, ask for one that’s not too oaky; that quality could overshadow the flavor of the crab.

Poached Halibut
When halibut is poached or served in other simple ways—without a dramatically flavored sauce, for instance—it works with a range of white wines. My favorite is white Bordeaux. These wines (which are blends of semillon and sauvignon blanc grapes) have dry, citrusy, fresh flavor and are medium-bodied. They have more oomph than, say, pinot grigio, and are elegant and sleek.

Sautéed or Grilled Shrimp
Sautéed and grilled shrimp are easy to match with wine, but my favorite partner for them is sauvignon blanc. Sauvignon blanc’s fresh, clean, herbal character is a great counterpoint to shellfish in general. Or, try this traditional European pairing: sautéed shrimp and manzanilla sherry from Spain. It’s an exquisite match.

Cooking Light wine expert Karen MacNeil was named Ecolab Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional of 2004 by the James Beard Foundation.