My Scottish grandmother kept exactly one spice in her kitchen: cinnamon. Today,
such minimalism is almost unthinkable. We've become a country enticed by
spice, fearless in the realm of the fiery and driven in our search for flavor
drama. If there is a current running through contemporary cooking, it is surely
this: the bolder the better.
Just as food is getting bolder and sassier, wines are, too.
And since the wine universe is ever expanding, there are more flavorful options
from which to choose than ever before -- from the lip-smackingly juicy red wines
of the South of France to the outrageously tropical white wines of New Zealand.
Still, finding the perfect wine to go with a well-seasoned pork chop is one
thing; finding the right match for a pork tenderloin howling with Jamaican jerk
spices is quite another. Once the degree of spice gets bumped up to the level
evidenced in our Caribbean
Cooking Class, you'll need to have a few good matching strategies, or the
wine will end up tasting like a generic liquid and not much else. After lots
of experimentation, here are the best strategies I've found for pairing wines
with bold, spicy foods.
1. Opt for just-as-bold red wines. This is the logical first plan of
attack. Spices build on one another and create fascinating flavor dynamics,
so a lively wine sets up an intriguing contrast to spices in a bold dish. If
you're thinking French, try wines labeled Cotes-du-Rhone, Gigondas, or Vacqueyras.
Otherwise, try a spicy, juicy California Zinfandel.
2. Opt for highly aromatic wines. This is what most wine professionals
and wine-savvy chefs do. Highly aromatic wines have a tantalizing way of balancing
spiciness, and the four best choices are all white: Gewürztraminer, Muscat,
Riesling, and Viognier. All of these grape varieties are made into dry as well
as semidry wines. But don't be afraid of a hint of sweetness, because it sets
up a great flavor counterpoint when paired against spices.
3. Consider sparkling wines. All those bubbles bursting on your palate
are sensational when you savor them in the context of a spicy dish. California
makes some fantastic examples, many of which cost $13 to $18 -- less than some
Chardonnays.
4. Focus on acidity. A fresh, crisp, high-acid white wine served with
a spicy meal cleanses your palate and puts you on a sort of culinary seesaw:
A sip of the wine makes you want a bite of the food, and a bite of the food
makes you want a sip of the wine. Some of the most exciting high-acid white
wines today are New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, with personality to spare.
5. Think pink. The idea that rose wines are unsophisticated and uninteresting
is totally wrong. Europeans drink roses by the bucket all summer long because
they're fruity, bold, and refreshing. They also make great partners for highly
flavored dishes. California, France, and Spain all make lots of roses, and most
are a steal to boot.
6. Look out for oak and tannin. Most Chardonnays are very oaky because
they've been aged in wooden barrels. When you drink them with spicy foods, that
oakiness turns unpleasantly dry, bitter, and harsh. Similarly, wines high in
tannin -- like many Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots -- can seem strident and
severe with spicy dishes.
In the end, of course, there's no way to completely predict what will happen
when the complex flavors of food and wine swirl together like a giant kaleidoscope.
But for spice lovers, experimentation and unpredictability are half the fun.