One taste, and you might opt for grilled tofu and tempeh over a steak--both take on irresistible, smoky flavor from the grill.

Neutral-tasting tofu, known for readily absorbing flavor from other ingredients, is enhanced by grilling. But tempeh--a flat, dense cake of cooked whole soybeans with its own assertive taste--gains, too, as the smoke and golden brown crust created by searing heat complement its meaty quality.

Grilled tofu and tempeh retain their distinctive taste long after grilling, as well, which means that leftovers can spark salads, soups, and other dishes. Enjoy any leftover patties from the Grilled Tempeh Burgers on a Caesar salad, for example, or crumble them into gazpacho.

You can purchase grill-flavored tofu which is conveniently quick and easy to use. But home grilling gives tofu and tempeh a brighter flavor, especially when they have spent some time marinating.

The best tofu for grilled dishes is the water-packed variety, sold sealed in a plastic tub or pouch. Tofu labeled "silken," which is usually sold in a box and resembles soft custard or bouncy gelatin, falls apart more easily on the grill, even when it's firm or extrafirm. To prepare water-packed tofu for grilling, it's best to draw out some of its moisture--either by pressing or oven firming. Both methods compact the tofu, which makes it more chewy and sturdy. Or pick up commercially smoked or baked tofu, available at natural foods stores and some large supermarkets. Both products are already firmed and are sometimes seasoned.

All-soy tempeh, which has an assertive flavor, is the best choice for burgers. More mellow tempeh varieties, in which a variety of grains, including brown rice and quinoa, are blended with the soybeans, let the flavors in a marinade come through more, as in the Tempeh Fajitas.

So fire up the grill, and enjoy the smoky flavor it gives to these dishes.