The regulars peacefully sun themselves on Pier 39 after a swim in the San Francisco Bay and a scrumptious lunch of fresh seafooduntil one sunbather shoves another right off the docks.
Except for the occasional dunking, local sea lions enjoy life just as humans do in San Franciscoreveling in its pleasant climate, waterfront panoramas, and tasty local treats. Ask residents what they love about the city by the bay, and many will tell you it's that "daydream" is an active verb here. Unbelievable views encompass an eclectic urban skyline, ocean, and mountains; flowers bloom year-round in 229 public parks; and artists touch up the more than 70 vibrant murals that decorate Mission District streets.
San Francisco earned the 5th spot on our top 20 list of Cooking Light cities because it ranked highly in the following categories: the highest number of James Beard nominees for best restaurant and best chef, number of farmers' markets, percentage of residents who consume five or more servings of fruits and vegetables per day, and its walkability.
Best picnic potential: August signals summer in San Francisco, when the warm sun finally pierces the fog that keeps the city cool in June and July. The Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market (415-291-3276, www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com) overflows with picnic-worthy picks on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Locally grown must-samples include fresh butter from Andante Dairy, which also supplies the famous French Laundry in nearby Yountville; ollalieberries (oversized blackberries); Acme's sourdough bread, which has improved on San Francisco's original 150-year-old recipe with a golden crust that stays crisp; and organic tomatoes raised with minimal water and maximum sun for a burst of earthy flavor.
Best local cuisine: Husband-wife team Phil and Cameron West adapt the menu at Range (415-282-8283, www.rangesf.com) daily to reflect what's in season in California. On a typical day, Rainbow chard is slipped under coffee-rubbed pork shoulder to absorb its juices; savory bread pudding becomes a main dish when studded with local radish sprouts and hints of Gruyère; and wild nettle is tucked into an airy gratin that sidekicks for the bavette flank or skirt steak.
Best gourmet on the go: Reservations are hard to come by at James Beard award nominee Charles Phan's acclaimed modern-Vietnamese Slanted Door (415-861-8032, www.slanteddoor.com). If you can't snag one, head to Phan's take-out window, Out of the Door, in the main hall of the Ferry Building for portable versions of his signature dishes, such as steamed rice-flour buns stuffed with lean spiced chicken, or a Vietnamese-inspired sweet-and-sour salad of grapefruit, candied pecans, purple cabbage, and jicama. If you can't find the chef to give him your compliments, give them to one of his cousins: 22 of the staff are Phan family members.