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Dinner Tonight



Ashore in Baltimore
Explore the waterfront, crack some crabs, and enjoy the art of the Chesapeake's liveliest port.
Story by Barbara Benham / Photography by Douglas Merriam

Stitch in Time
Baltimore is a haven for American history buffs. The flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write the "Star-Spangled Banner" during the War of 1812 was made and flown here. Key wrote the poem after seeing the huge flag—30 by 42 feet—tattered but still flying at Fort McHenry after a decisive clash during the Battle of Baltimore. At the Flag House and Star-Spangled Banner Museum (410-837-1793, www.flaghouse.org), you'll see where flagmaker Mary Young Pickersgill sewed the flag, and though the original is now at the Smithsonian, you'll garner a sense of this period of history here, as well as at the adjacent Museum of the War of 1812 (both sites are open Tuesday through Saturday).

In the Fell's Point neighborhood, the Preservation Society (410-675-6750, www.preservationsociety.com) provides free walking tours. On Saturdays, its Immigration Tour highlights Baltimore's role as the mid-Atlantic's version of Ellis Island, recounting to visitors the waves of entrants at Henderson Wharf.

For a sense of Baltimore during the Civil War, walk up to Federal Hill on the south side of the harbor. The trapezoid-shaped hill was built during the war, so that Union troops could keep watch over the city's pro-Confederacy contingent, which threatened an insurrection. Today, the hill offers one of the best views of Baltimore's booming cityscape and, to the east, the harbor.

Places to Stay
The historic 80-room Admiral Fell Inn (rates from $159; 410-522-7377, www.admiralfell.com) is located in the heart of the Fell's Point neighborhood, and once provided lodging to sailors. Today, its elegant rooms are appointed with 18th-century furniture.

For a more urbane setting, check into the Peabody Court Hotel (rates from $190; 800-292-5500, www.peabodycourthotel.com) in the Mt. Vernon neighborhood. A five-minute stroll from the Inner Harbor, it's just steps away from cultural venues like The Walters Art Museum and Antiques Row, which stretches along Howard Street.

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