Boston: Haymarket Square
Vibe: A cacophonous carnival with lots of talk in several accents
Unique flavors: From California tomatoes to New Jersey tomatoes, there's a mélange of foods from around the country.
Insider tip: For optimal quality, shop on Fridays before 10 a.m.; for quantity, stop by on Saturdays after 2:30 p.m., when vendors want to clear out what they have left and head home.
Founded: mid-19th century
Standing behind their plywood stalls, just as their fathers and grandfathers had done before them, audacious purveyors, mostly of Irish or Italian descent, have honed catching the eye of a browsing shopper into a fine art at Boston's largest open-air market.
"Hey, Bobby, the bananas are flying off the table . . . move."
"Lady, you want fresh tuna? Check this out. Just off the boat an hour ago . . ."
Truth be told, the banter revs up the energy level at Haymarket—not that it needs it. Hugging the fringes of the city's primarily Italian North End, the Haymarket draws the faithful who make weekly pilgrimages here to purchase produce, fish, meats, even sugarcane. Bargain-hunters love it; the specials change on a whim here. One minute they're scribbled on cardboard, and the next they're simply shouted.
Stroll through the Blackstone Block and Creek Square, just behind Haymarket, the only place left in Boston where the original streets (17th and 18th) are still intact, as are the former haunts of Winslow Homer and Benjamin Franklin. Take a walking tour with Michele Topor (617-523-6032, www.micheletopor.com), a former chef. She'll take you to an authentic salumeria, or deli, in search of great olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and salami, and to a 70-year-old coffee and spice shop, Polcari Coffee Shop.
Around the corner, try some hearty Yankee seafood at Union Oyster House, America's oldest restaurant (since 1826), or head to North Square's Mamma Maria, set in a 19th-century brick row house. Cool off with a ferry ride from Long Wharf to the Harbor Islands (www.islandalliance.com), mostly uninhabited little gems where you can hike, kayak, picnic, and swim. You can also bike or inline skate along the Charles River Esplanade, a parklike strip along the river.
Where to stay: Check into the Onyx Hotel near Haymarket. Done in Art Deco style, this pet-friendly boutique hotel is just steps from the Freedom Trail (rates from $199; 800-546-7866, www.onyxhotel.com).
