Homemade custards are simple to prepare, and once you try our tempting lineup of silky desserts, you'll find their flavors and versatility can't be matched by the boxed variety. There are two types of custards: stirred custards, often called stovetop custards, and baked custards. Stirred custards include soft puddings, the luscious vanilla sauce called crème Anglaise, wine-kissed zabaglione, and fillings for icebox pies, such as chocolate and coconut cream. Baked custards range from caramel-glazed flan to silky, elegant crème brûlée.

Stirred or baked, all custards rely on eggs for their texture and richness. When it comes to eggs, remember the saying, "Slow and steady wins the race." Because of the way egg protein cooks, custards require slow, even heat for the best results. For most stovetop custards, this steady cooking is accomplished by tempering (gently introducing hot liquids to cool eggs) and constant stirring to prevent overheating. Baked custards are usually cooked in a water bath to ensure gradual, even hands-off cooking and creamy results that more than justify the effort.

TIPS OF THE TRADE

Stirring
Never stop stirring a recipe that calls for constant stirring. Failure to stir as needed can cause the delicate custard to overheat and curdle. Some chefs insist on a figure eight pattern to maintain constant heat, some claim a zigzag motion does the trick, and some use a simple circular motion. Whatever your preference, keep the mixture moving away from the bottom of the pot.

Tempering
The process of slowly combining a hot liquid with a cold one is called tempering. In the case of custards, tempering ensures the hot liquid doesn't scramble the eggs. To temper, slowly add the hot liquid to the eggs while whisking constantly.

Ice Bath
It's important that some stove-top custards stop cooking as soon as they become thick. In those cases, an ice bath is necessary: Spoon the hot custard into a bowl, then place the custard bowl into a larger ice-filled bowl.

Water Bath
A water bath (a shallow pan of warm water in which containers of food are cooked) insulates and protects custards from the heat of the oven so they cook slowly and evenly. The depth of the water should be half the height of the custard container (ramekin, cake pan, etc.). If you're baking multiple custards, the pan must be large enough so that the containers don't touch one another.

TESTING FOR DONENESS

While various factors—including the individual recipe and application—determine a custard's doneness, there are two time-honored guideposts.

For stirred custards: The custard should coat the back of a spoon thickly enough so that when you run a finger across it, the mark remains. If any egg particles appear, the custard is overcooked.

For baked custards: When you (carefully) tap the side of the ramekin or pan, the custard should jiggle. If it ripples like water, it's not done. If it doesn't jiggle at all, has shrunk, or is beginning to crack, the custard is overcooked.