A little trivia: First cultivated in China more than 4,000 years ago, where brides once nibbled on them to increase fertility, apricots gradually made their way across the continents. The name derives from the Roman word for precocious, praecocium, in recognition of the fruit's early ripening (the trees blossom in February). Spanish missionaries eventually introduced apricots to California, which--having the temperate climate this sensitive fruit demands--now supplies over 90 percent of the crop in America.

What they look like: Smaller than its relative the peach, the apricot has a smooth, oval pit that comes out easily when the fruit is cut in half. Skin color can range from pale yellow to deep burnt orange, and flesh color from golden cream to brilliant orange. A pound will yield about eight to 12 apricots.

Selection tips: Look for plump, reasonably firm, uniformly colored fruit. Avoid any that feel hard or have visible bruises, as well as those sporting tinges of green, which means they were picked too early and may never fully ripen.

Storage tips: Unripe apricots should be stored at room temperature until ripe (they'll still be firm). Then, place them in the fridge in a plastic bag–otherwise, they'll pick up flavors from neighboring foods. Ripe apricots are perishable–they only keep for three to five days–so you'll want to eat them promptly.

How to eat them: Raw, fresh apricots can be eaten straight from the tree, skin included. Don't bother to chill them; they taste best eaten at room temperature. Be sure to handle them gently, as they bruise easily. You can also grill, broil, or poach them–or check out some of our recipes below.

Peak growing season: Late May through July, but they're available into the late summer. If you can't find them in your supermarket or farmers'; market, you can find a mail-order source at the California Apricot Council Web site, www.califapricot.com.

Health benefits: Fresh apricots contain both beta-carotene and lypocene, two compounds that have been shown to fight LDL ("bad") cholesterol and thereby reduce the risk of heart disease. They're also a good source

of vitamin A–three of them will provide just over half the recommended daily amount.

Nutritional info: Three medium apricots will cost you a mere 51 calories. In return, they provide 2.5 grams of fiber (be sure to eat the skin), 1.5 grams of protein, 0.4 grams of fat (none of it saturated), 1.0 milligram of sodium, and no cholesterol.