Most of these items are in well-stocked supermarkets; all are available in Asian markets or online at sites such as www.ethnicgrocer.com. Unless otherwise specified, all condiments should be refrigerated after opening.

Black vinegar. A kind of rice vinegar that tends to be lighter and sweeter than Western vinegars. Has a mellow flavor and is used in sauces and dressings. A good substitute is Worcestershire sauce.

Chili paste or sauce. A spicy seasoning made of crushed chili peppers, oil, vinegar, garlic, and other flavorings. You can substitute crushed red pepper, but because it's more potent, start with one-third the amount and add more to taste.

Dark sesame oil. Nutty and rich, it's made from roasted or toasted sesame seeds and is not interchangeable with the pressed sesame seed oil found in health-food stores. Because it smokes at high temperatures, it's primarily used as a seasoning and not for stir-frying.

Dried chili peppers. Available in a range of sizes in Asian markets. The smaller the pepper, the more intense its heat. While both fresh and dried peppers are used in Chinese cooking, the dried ones are used to infuse oils, sauces, and dressings with their spicy flavor. They are normally left whole, cut in half lengthwise, or finely ground. Seeds may be left in or discarded, but remember that they increase the intensity or hotness of the chili flavor.

Dried Chinese mushrooms. Pungent dried shiitake mushrooms (also called black mushrooms) impart a strong smoky flavor. Another variety, dried wood ear mushrooms, is relished for its crunchy texture.

Fermented or salted black beans. Used to season sauces, these are black soybeans that have been fermented with seasonings like ginger, orange peel, and licorice and then dried. The beans should be rinsed and drained before using; they refrigerate indefinitely. Look for dried beans in packages or plastic bags rather than in cans or jars.

Ginger. One of the most widely used seasonings in Asian cooking. When buying fresh ginger, look for hefty, smooth, shiny knobs. Ginger also comes in crystallized and pickled forms for other applications.

Hoisin sauce. A sauce made with soybeans, sugar, vinegar, and spices. Sweet and fairly thick, its main uses are in marinades for barbecuing and roasting, and in dipping sauces.

Oyster sauce. A Cantonese staple, usually sold in bottles, that's made from oysters, salt, and seasonings. It's often used in sauces for seafood, meat, and vegetable dishes. You can substitute an equal amount of soy sauce.

Plum sauce. Also known as duck sauce, this is made from plums, apricots, vinegar, and sugar. In China it's often served with roasted goose or duck; in the United States, it's the ubiquitous table sauce in American-Cantonese restaurants.

Rice wine. An all-purpose cooking wine made from fermented rice. Sake or Japanese rice wines are acceptable substitutes, as is a very high-quality dry sherry (dry, Fino, or Manzanilla, but not cream sherry). The best variety of rice wine is Shaohsing.

Soy sauce. Made from fermented soybeans and wheat, its flavor varies by manufacturer and aging process. Regular soy sauce contains 1,030 milligrams of sodium per tablespoon; light or low-sodium versions have 484.