Wood planks made for cooking are available seasonally from barbecue and gourmet stores (like Williams-Sonoma); seafood markets often stock them year-round. You can also order planks online from www.barbecuewood.com. Planks vary from about $3 to $4 apiece in stores (they usually come in packs of 3 or 4) to $8 to $9 apiece (including shipping) on the Internet.

Each of these recipes calls for a specific aromatic wood plank, although the flavors of the individual woods are quite subtle and even harder to distinguish when combined with a pungent sauce or vegetable accompaniment. Alder and cedar planks are the most widely available, and of the two, cedar has a more assertive flavor. Avoid resinous woods such as pine, poplar, and birch; they'll impart a harsh flavor.

• Alder gives a light, delicate flavor that won't overpower mild-flavored foods. Alder and seafood -- especially salmon -- are a perfect pairing.

• Cedar is the most aromatic wood, lending a deep but gentle wood flavor, similar to its familiar aroma. Cedar works well with hearty foods, such as chicken and pork, and stands up to spicy foods.

• Hickory lends a strong smoky flavor, which pairs well with beef, pork, and chicken (think hickory-smoked bacon and barbecue, and highly seasoned rubs and sauces).

• Maple has a mildly smoky flavor that adds a little sweetness. It pairs well with fish, chicken, and pork. Hams are often smoked with maple wood.

• Oak provides a medium aroma. Expect an acidic note without any bitterness (similar to the flavor oak imparts to Chardonnay). Oak pairs well with most foods, especially fish, pork, and chicken.