This fiery barbecue was invented by the Maroons, or runaway slaves, as a means of preserving meats without refrigeration. The more Scotch bonnet peppers you use, the more authentic the flavor. Use one pepper for a mildly spicy dish and four for a very spicy dish. (To approximate the heat of the authentic jerk marinade, you would have to use 12 Scotch bonnet peppers.) Here, we butterfly the pork to increase the surface area for the marinade to penetrate. This recipe will also work with pork loin.

Step 1. To butterfly the pork, cut it lengthwise with a boning knife, cutting to, but not all the way through, the other side. Open up the halves like a book. Cut each half the same way, opening the pork so that it lies flat. This increases the surface area into which the marinade penetrates.

Step 2. To make the jerk marinade, combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor. (The marinade will be thick and pasty.) Pour over the pork, and marinate for up to 24 hours. The longer you marinate the pork, the more flavorful it will be.

Step 3. Keep as much marinade on the pork as possible, and grill until done. To serve, cut horizontally across the grain into thin slices.

Wine Note: This intense dish calls for an equally dramatic wine. White-wine lovers should try a dry Gewurztraminer from Alsace. Red-wine lovers should try a spicy Cotes-du-Rhone from France.