Fast (Direct): Most people are familiar with direct grilling--the quick, high-heat method that, at its simplest, involves putting food on a grill rack directly over hot coals. Examples include Indonesian Shrimp Sate With Creamy Peanut Sauce and Hot-and-Spicy Asian-Rubbed Chicken. The best candidates for direct grilling are firm-fleshed fish such as salmon, tuna, swordfish, halibut, shrimp, and mahimahi; chicken breasts and thighs; chops; burgers; and steaks. Vegetables can also be grilled directly--just be sure to cut them large enough that they don't fall through the rack (or use a grill basket).

Slow (Indirect): This slightly faster version of ancient, superslow barbecuing is similar to modern oven roasting. Both sides of the grill are fired up; then one side is turned off. If using a charcoal grill, push the hot coals to one side. A disposable aluminum foil pan (also called a drip pan) containing water (or wine, broth, or other liquid) is placed directly over the coals on the side of a gas or electric grill where the heat has been turned off. On a charcoal grill, the pan is placed on the side where the charcoal has been moved. The food is then placed on the rack over the pan. The pan serves two purposes: It creates a steamy environment in which the food can cook, and it catches drippings from the food, minimizing flareups. We use the indirect method for the Grilled Split Chicken With Rosemary and Garlic and the Texas Dry-Rub Slow-Grilled Turkey Breast; good candidates for this type of grilling generally include whole chickens, roasts, turkey breasts, and other large foods. To further intensify flavor, you can brown the food over direct heat at the start or end of grilling.