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Fresh or dry? Rigati, Gomiti or Radiatore?
Learn pasta basics from Italian cookbook author Lidia Bastianich.
By Lidia Bastianich

Many Sizes, Fun Shapes
There are three main types of dried pasta—short, long, and various pastinas (or little pastas). Short pasta has the widest selection, with more than 100 different shapes. They can be smooth or have a ridged finish, in which case they’ll have the addition of “rigati” or “rigate” in their name. These shapes vary from tubular (rigatoni, ziti, penne, and mezzani) to tubular with a twist (gomiti [elbow], lumache [snails], creste di galli [cock’s comb]). Other distinctive shapes include rotelle (wheels), dischi volanti (flying saucers), radiatore (radiators), and tofe (a shell-like shape).

Among the long pastas, the main difference is the diameter. Some are long and round, like spaghetti, vermicelli, and capellini, while others are long and flat, like linguine and fresine. Some, like perciatelli, bucatini, and mezzanelli, are hollow and round. Pastinas, such as rice-shaped orzo, are best used in soups.

Fresh or Dry?
I am often asked which is better, fresh or dry pasta. Actually, they are two different things, though both end up in a pot of boiling water. Fresh pasta is made with regular soft wheat flour or a mixture of other flours, such as whole wheat, barley, and semolina, with the addition of eggs and sometimes olive oil. The rich flavor and silky texture of fresh pasta work best with delicate oil sauces or smooth cream sauces.

Dry pasta is made from durum wheat (the hardest wheat grain), salt, and water. Sauces cling better to dry pasta, and that’s what these recipes use. Dry pasta also retains some firmness when cooked, and it comes in a myriad of shapes, so it’s the ideal palette for all of the wonderful Italian sauces. When buying pasta, look for “100% durum semolina wheat” on the label, which indicates that only hard durum wheat was used. This pasta will have a pleasantly chewy bite and a nutty wheat flavor.

Although dry pasta has a long shelf life, it is best cooked and eaten sooner rather than later. White spots on dry pasta are an indication that it is old. Blotchy, unevenly colored pasta may have been dried or stored improperly. Also look for a slightly rough texture on the outside of the pasta. This is an indication that it was shaped in bronze dies instead of Teflon-coated ones. Sauces cling better to rough-textured pasta than to pasta with a smooth surface.