Many of us grew up with a notion of fish based on school-cafeteria fish sticks and frozen breaded fish fillets. But today the variety of fish at the market is so broad, there is a fish to suit anyone's palate. Fresh fish varies enormously, from assertive salmon to subtle tilapia; from buttery, delicate halibut to meaty tuna and swordfish. Arctic char, mahimahi, amberjack, and pompano are a few of the lesser-known varieties, but they're now more widely available and ready to add to your repertoire.

Still, it can be daunting to stand in front of the fish case and see so many kinds. Here's how to select the freshest fish possible, store it, and cook it. You'll find a lot of new choices, and learn how to best take advantage of them.