Although this primeval technique--using fire and smoke--has roots as far back and wide around as roots can reach, it's also become a quintessential symbol of the good life in America. Even your most culinarily challenged friends and relatives love to show off their prowess by grilling a backyard burger.

We're going to give you the skills to call their bluff. You'll learn to grill so masterfully that when somebody yearns for, say, something as tasty as Chipotle-Marinated Pork Chops With Chimichurri Sauce--instead of Uncle Bob's famous charburger and overtoasted bun--they'll know exactly where to come. And speaking of burgers, we've got two that will make your grill the hottest spot in town.

Grilling is simplicity in action: cooking your food--from meats to veggies--directly over hot coals (or a gas flame) for a short time. There's also an indirect form of grilling that takes a little longer. Both are different from barbecuing, which involves cooking for a long time over low heat.

Somewhat like stir-frying, grilling puts the emphasis up-front on planning and then on close attention during the rapid cooking. That's why it's important, for example, to choose high-quality ingredients. A little extra at the checkout register for the best cuts of meat or salmon and the freshest shrimp or vegetables will mean everything in those short but decisive moments when food meets fire.

As for equipment, anything from a converted 55-gallon drum to a porch-friendly hibachi to a discount-store weekend special will work fine. Beyond that, only the most basic of gear: flameproof mitts, an instant-read thermometer, sturdy tongs, a wide metal pancake turner, and platters. And don't forget to make a grillside work space.

You know how a good grill brings out the animal in you, but we'd be remiss if we didn't point out that because much of the fat sizzles right off the meat or seafood, grilling is one of the most healthful techniques around. A billion years of evolution can't be wrong.

Grilling Hints
Use wood chips to impart a subtle but noticeable flavor to slow-grilled foods. Any kind of chips can be used. Sprinkle them directly on the hot coals just before placing the turkey on the grill. Place the drip pan on the side of the grill where the heat has been turned off. Place turkey on rack over drip pan.

Grill salmon, skin side down, without turning, for about 10 minutes per inch of thickness. To remove from grill, slide a spatula between the salmon and the skin. The salmon will lift right off, leaving the skin behind.

Thread shrimp on metal or bamboo skewers to save time when turning them on the grill. Instead of flipping one at a time, just flip an entire skewerful. If using bamboo skewers, be sure to soak them in water for 30 minutes so they don't burn.

Grill vegetables for 10 minutes, then cut them accordingly. To make sure your vegetables are smoky-tasting, place them directly on the grill, as opposed to using a grill basket.