In addition to having a pleasant range of flavors, from mellow to pungent,
spring greens are the first shoots to come up in the garden when little else
is ready to grow. They tolerate the cool temperatures of early spring, and grow
very fast; this means you can harvest the leaves well before even planting most
other vegetables.
Dark-green leafy vegetables are nutritional powerhouses. But it's their captivating
flavors and wonderful versatility that make greens such a joy to cook. And more
often than not, they're interchangeable in recipes, which adds to their appeal.
Escarole and spinach are mildest.
Kale, Swiss chard, and collards have slightly more pronounced flavors.
Broccoli rabe, beet greens, turnip greens, and mustard greens are the
most assertive and need to be cooked with care--try simmering them in broth
instead of water to mellow their slight bitterness.
Arugula, romaine, and the mixture of baby greens known as mesclun are
usually eaten raw in salads, where they impart a delightful tang.
Whether leafy greens are part of a main course or are served as a side dish,
the key to bringing out their flavor lies in cooking them properly. Overcooking
has been the common technique of the past, but today we know better. A few minutes
of simmering so that the leaves become tender yet retain their bright green
color is all that's needed to transform these wonderful vegetables into tantalizing
offerings. With success assured, fresh greens are bound to become a staple in
your repertoire.
Clean Greens
Store leafy greens unwashed in plastic bags in the refrigerator; any added moisture
will cause them to spoil more rapidly. When you're ready to use them, remove
unwanted stems and tear leaves into smaller pieces. Leafy greens harbor sand
and other debris, so you'll need to wash them thoroughly. Avoid using a colander
for the job, because just running water over the leaves isn't enough to clean
them. Instead, dunk greens in a large bowl, pot, or sink filled with cold water.
The dirt will sink to the bottom while the greens float to the top. Remove the
leaves by hand and place them in another bowl. Pour out the water and repeat
the procedure until the water is free of debris. Dunking and soaking greens
is the only method that removes all the grit. Next, spin the greens in a salad
spinner if they need to be dry for a salad or other recipe. If your recipe allows,
forgo the spinner and cook the greens with the water that clings to them.