Paula Lambert founded the Mozzarella Company in Dallas in 1982 and has written two cookbooks about cheese: The Cheese Lover's Cookbook and Guide and her latest, Cheese, Glorious Cheese! We asked her about the ingredient to which she's dedicated her career.

Why write about cheese? I love cheese and think that using just a little bit makes delicious dishes even better. And because I have loved cheese all my life and been an artisanal cheesemaker for 25 years, I know a lot about it and I love to extol its virtues.

What surprises you about cheese? There are so many wonderful types of cheese that it is possible to find a cheese that goes with just about everything. In Italy it is considered a no-no to have cheese with fish; however, there are many wonderful fish and cheese combinations, such as smoked salmon and fresh goat cheese and even halibut with a potato-Asiago crust.

What cheeses do you keep in your kitchen? I always have Parmigiano-Reggiano in my refrigerator. In fact, if I had to live on a desert island and could have only one cheese, that would be the one because it is so versatile—good alone, on pasta, on gratins, in salads, and with desserts.

What's your favorite cheese? My favorites are fresh, mild, young cheeses like fresh mozzarella. The nuances of their flavors are so subtle and absolutely delicious.

Are there any cheeses you don't like? Some of the very strong Spanish cheeses are too much for me. However, there are many pungent, washed-rind French and Italian cheeses I find wonderful.

Are there any unexpected ways you use or serve cheese? In Cheese, Glorious Cheese! I created a cheddar ice cream by stirring very finely grated farmhouse cheddar cheese into vanilla ice cream. It tops a toasted pound cake and is topped with spiced apple chutney. It is really delicious!