Tuna (gourmet, packed in olive oil)

GRAND PRIZE WINNER:  Ortiz Bonito del Norte. High-end oil-packed tuna is a whole different animal from the ordinary variety: rich, meaty, tangy with olive oil. It’s a splurge (the winner is about $10 a pop!), but don’t discount the pleasure potential until you taste this treat. We savored Ortiz straight from the tin, like caviar.

TASTE TEST AWARD: Cento. Firm, with strong but not fishy tuna flavor and just the right amount of briny salt.